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Every blade is made to order and welded to your length. Your basket shows the expected delivery date before you pay.
The Bandsaw Store

The full range

Bandsaw blades: every construction, compared honestly

From carbon steel and bi-metal to carbide-tipped: the blades we sell, compared by construction, with every band welded to the length your machine takes.

Seven coiled bandsaw blades in a row on a brushed steel bench, from a narrow band on the left to a broad band on the right, with one coil held by an orange cable tie

How to choose a bandsaw blade construction

Every bandsaw blade balances edge hardness, body toughness and cost, and the construction sets that balance before any other choice you make. Carbon steel blades are the economical workhorse: a hardened carbon body cuts wood, panel products, plastics and softer non-ferrous metals cleanly, and costs little enough to change often. Bi-metal blades weld a high speed steel tooth edge onto a fatigue-resistant alloy backing, which keeps the edge hard at the temperatures steel cutting generates. That is why bi-metal is the default in fabrication and engineering shops.

Carbide-tipped blades carry tungsten carbide tips for the alloys that stop bi-metal: titanium, nickel-based high-temperature alloys and hardened tool steels. Whatever the construction, we weld every band to the loop length your machine takes. Setup matters as much as the blade: tension and band speed, covered under bandsaw accessories, and cutting fluid all change how long an edge lasts.

The full category directory

Every category in the shop, one table. Each category name links to its full guide with products, materials guidance and buying advice.

Every category with products in the shop, its construction and what it typically cuts
CategoryConstructionTypical materialsBrands we supply
Carbon Steel BladesHardened carbon steel body and teeth, no alloy tipSoftwood, Hardwood, Chipboard, MDF, Plastics and Non-ferrous metalsDakin-Flathers
Bi-Metal BladesHSS tooth edge welded to a flexible alloy steel backingStructural steel, Mild steel, Stainless steel, Tool steel, Aluminium, Brass, Copper and Cast ironBahco, Morse and Lenox
Carbide-Tipped BladesTungsten carbide tips on an alloy backing, some further coatedHigh-temperature alloys, Titanium, Tool steel, Cast iron, High-silicon aluminium and Large or difficult sectionsBahco and Morse
Cutting FluidsSoluble cutting fluid concentrate, mixed with waterMetals cut with coolantRods Oil
  • 26blade products in the range
  • 3 to 67mmpublished band widths
  • Made to orderevery band welded to your length
  • UKdelivery to UK addresses

Blades at work

Bahco blades cutting solid steel.

Bahco 3853 Sandflex Top Fabricator bandsaw blade cutting through a steel channel section on a horizontal bandsaw
Bahco 3851 Sandflex Cobra bandsaw blade cutting into a solid steel block on a bandsaw
Bahco 3860 Unset Carbide TCD bandsaw blade cutting two solid steel blocks side by side on a bandsaw

What the range cuts

A representative spread from timber to titanium. Material names link to our in-depth cutting guides where one exists.

Workpiece materials against the construction that handles each
MaterialCutting guidance
HardwoodCarbon blades cover general ripping and cost little enough to change often. Keep the pitch coarse enough for deep rip cuts to clear.
MDF and ChipboardTreat resin-bonded panels as abrasive: the glue line dulls edges faster than the wood fibre. Fine, consistent carbon pitches give clean panel edges at sensible blade cost.
Mild SteelBi-metal is the default. The real decision is pitch: coarser for solid bar, finer for thin wall and profiles, always keeping between 4 and 24 teeth in the cut.
Stainless SteelStainless work hardens the moment a tooth rubs instead of cuts, so keep feed positive from the first pass. High-performance bi-metal covers most sections; carbide takes heavy or high-nickel work.
AluminiumSoft alloys pack gullets while high-silicon castings wear edges like sandpaper. Go coarse to keep swarf moving and watch for tooth loading before it shows up as a wandering cut.
TitaniumLow thermal conductivity concentrates heat at the tooth tip, which is where ordinary edges fail. Carbide-tipped blades, moderate band speed, positive feed and generous coolant keep the tips alive.

Tooth pitch and band width: the general rules

Construction decides what a blade can cut; pitch and width decide how well it cuts it. These rules hold across every category, and variable pitch bands exist precisely to cover mixed section sizes without a blade change.

  1. Count teeth in the cut

    Aim for between 4 and 24 teeth engaged in the workpiece at any moment. Fewer and each tooth takes too big a bite and can strip; more and the gullets pack with material before they clear the cut.

  2. Go coarser for deep and soft

    Deep sections and soft, gummy materials need big gullets to carry material out of the cut. If the blade slows and the swarf compacts, the pitch is too fine for the job.

  3. Go finer for thin and hard

    Thin wall tube, profiles and sheet need more teeth sharing the load so no single tooth hooks an edge. Harder materials also favour finer pitches and steadier feed.

  4. Fit width to machine and cut

    Run the widest band your machine can tension properly for straight, deep cuts: wider bands resist deflection. Drop width where the work curves or the wheels are small.

Frequently asked questions

How do I choose between carbon, bi-metal and carbide blades?

Match the construction to the hardest, most abrasive thing you cut regularly. Carbon steel is the economical choice for wood, panel products, plastics and softer non-ferrous metals. Bi-metal keeps its high speed steel edge hard at steel-cutting temperatures, so it is the default for ferrous work. Carbide-tipped blades take over on titanium, high-temperature alloys and hardened tool steels.

What does welded to your length mean?

Bandsaw blades run as continuous loops, and every machine takes its own loop length. Each order is cut and welded to the length you state, within the range shown on the product page, so the band fits your machine exactly rather than approximately. The custom bandsaw blades page explains the process and how to state your length.

How do I measure my bandsaw blade length?

The reliable sources are an existing band and the machine itself. Measure a band you know fits or check the machine plate or manual for the stated loop length; the measuring guide on our custom bandsaw blades page walks through both. If you can only find a wheel-to-wheel measurement, the contact page shows how to ask us to help work the loop length out.

When should I replace a bandsaw blade?

Change the blade when it starts forcing the work rather than cutting it: feed pressure creeps up, the cut wanders or bellies, the finish roughens or teeth strip or chip. Cracks at the gullets mean the band has reached the end of its fatigue life and should come off immediately. Swapping a little early is cheaper than the scrap and downtime a failed band causes mid-cut.

Tell the blade wizard your material and machine and it narrows the whole range to a shortlist.

Open the blade wizard