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The Bandsaw Store

Material guide

Bandsaw blades for hardwood

Dense, abrasive hardwood rewards a durable, precise edge. Hardback carbon blades hold a straight line through deep rip cuts, flexback carbon covers contour work and bi-metal wood blades hold their edge where carbon blunts too fast.

The problem with cutting hardwood

Hardwood punishes a blade in two ways at once. The density of the timber resists tooth penetration, so every tooth has to be driven into the cut rather than eased through it. Many hardwood species are also abrasive enough to wear a plain carbon edge quickly. Once the edge rounds over, the blade stops cutting and starts rubbing: feed pressure climbs, the cut burns and the band wanders off line.

The right edge holds its geometry. A sharp, consistent tooth line takes an equal bite on every pass, so the cut stays straight and the finish needs less sanding afterwards. Where abrasion is the real enemy, a bi-metal wood blade puts a high speed steel edge on a fatigue-resistant backing and keeps cutting long after a carbon edge has blunted.

Beam strength matters just as much when ripping deep sections. A hardback carbon blade is hardened through the back as well as the teeth, so it resists deflection under feed pressure and holds a straight line at a cost that suits general work.

Recommended blades for hardwood

Blades on sale today that suit this material, with the reason from each listing. Every one is welded to your machine's length.

Recommended blades for hardwood, from the current range. Prices are the lowest price offered for each blade.
BladeConstructionWidth rangeWhy this bladePrice
Saw37C Flex Back Carbon Bandsaw BladeDakin-FlathersHardened carbon steel body and teeth, no alloy tipCarbon steel blades guide3mm to 32mmFlexback carbon bandsaw blade for wood, plastics and non-ferrous metals, welded to your length in the UK.From £10.93 ex VAT£13.12 inc VAT

Getting the cut right

General rules that hold across machines. Exact widths, pitches and options are on each product page.

  1. Match the edge to the job

    For deep, straight ripping choose a hardback carbon blade: the hardened back adds the beam strength that keeps the cut on line. If the timber is abrasive or very hard and carbon edges are blunting quickly, step up to a bi-metal wood blade. For curved components and machines with smaller wheels, a flexback carbon blade is the sensible default.

  2. Pick the widest blade that fits

    A wider band has more beam strength, so it resists deflection and holds a straighter line through deep rip cuts in dense timber. Fit the widest blade your machine's wheels and guides accept for resawing and keep narrower bands for curved work. Whatever the width, the blade is welded to your machine's exact loop length.

  3. Give the gullets room to clear

    Dense hardwood fills gullets quickly and every tooth in the cut has to carry its sawdust clear. Deep rip cuts want a coarser pitch with generous gullets; a pitch that is too fine packs with dust, builds heat and pushes the blade off line. Save finer pitches for shallower cuts where finish matters most.

  4. Feed steadily, never force it

    Set the tension your machine and blade maker specify, check tracking and guides, then feed at a rate the blade accepts without slowing. Forcing dense timber deflects the band and produces a bowed cut; feeding too gently lets the teeth rub and dull instead of biting. A sharp blade should pull steady, even shavings, so change it when it starts asking for pressure.

A bandsaw following a pencilled curve in a thick piece of pale timber with two gloved hands guiding it, sawdust on the table and finished curved components stacked on the right

Industry guide

Timber and Sawmilling

Cutting hardwood for a living? The industry guide maps the whole workload, not just this material.

Read the guide

Frequently asked questions

What blade should I use to resaw hardwood?

For resawing choose the widest blade your machine takes for beam strength, with a coarse enough pitch to clear sawdust from a deep cut. A hardback carbon blade is hardened through the back as well as the teeth, so it resists deflection and holds a straight line, while a bi-metal wood blade earns its place when abrasive timber blunts carbon edges too fast.

What blade do I need for very hard or abrasive timber?

When a carbon blade blunts noticeably fast, the timber is telling you it is abrasive. A bi-metal wood blade puts a high speed steel edge on a fatigue-resistant backing, so it holds its sharpness far longer between blade changes on hard or abrasive timber.

How do I know when to change a bandsaw blade in hardwood?

A sharp blade pulls steady, even shavings at a consistent feed. When you need extra pressure to hold the same pace, when the cut starts to burn or when the band wanders off line, the edge has rounded over and is rubbing instead of biting. Change the blade at that point: forcing a dull band deflects it and bows the cut.

Tell the blade wizard your machine and length and it will narrow the range for hardwood.

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